Church & monasteryMoldavia

Văratec Monastery: the nuns’ village in the Neamț foothills

Văratec Monastery (Mănăstirea Văratec) is a Romanian Orthodox convent in a clearing at the foot of the mountains in Agapia Commune, Neamț County, about 12 km from Târgu Neamț. Founded in 1785, it is a living community rather than a museum, with three churches, a small museum and a poet’s grave inside a village of traditional houses.

Văratec grew from a tiny hermitage in a forest clearing into the largest community of nuns in Romania, with more than 400 sisters living in houses along narrow village lanes.

WhereVăratec village, Agapia Commune, Neamț County, in north-eastern Romania

TypeOrthodox women’s monastery founded in 1785; main church built 1808–1812

Best forMoldavian monastic life, a quiet forest setting and a small museum of the nuns’ crafts

Getting thereAbout 12 km from Târgu Neamț and 40 km from Piatra Neamț by road; Neamț Monastery is about 15 km away

The history of Văratec Monastery

Văratec begins with Bălașa Herescu, a priest’s daughter from Iași who lived as a rassophore nun, under the name Olimpiada, in the nearby Topolița hermitage. She acquired land in a clearing at Văratec. Advised by Paisius Velichkovsky, the abbot of Neamț Monastery, who wanted the tiny women’s hermitages near towns and villages gathered into a few larger, secluded monasteries, she set up a small retreat there between 1781 and 1785. In June 1785 Olimpiada and her confessor, Father Iosif, began building a wooden church dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, with cells beside it.

The community grew fast. In 1787 the new hermitage merged with Topolița, and the following year the nuns of Durău arrived under Mother Nazaria, who led the community from 1788 to 1814. In 1803 Metropolitan Veniamin Costachi of Moldavia set up a school of crafts and general education for nuns in the monasteries of Văratec and Agapia, where they learned liturgical music, Greek, embroidery and weaving, and he moved in sisters from three other hermitages. By September 1811 Văratec counted 273 nuns and novices. The wooden church had become too small, so a stone church was begun in 1808 and consecrated in 1812; it was painted in 1841.

Hard times came as well. During the 1821 uprising the settlement was besieged and plundered by Ottoman troops, and nuns were driven out or killed. Recovery followed: enclosure walls, a stone refectory, cells and a three-level bell tower went up in the first half of the 19th century. In 1839 Văratec became independent of Agapia. Under Abbess Eufrosina Lazu (1844–1887) the stone churches of St John the Baptist (1844) and the Transfiguration (1845–1847) were built, and the main church was repainted in 1882. Noblewomen donated estates, among them Safta Brâncoveanu, who retired here in 1832 and is buried at the monastery.

On the night of 10–11 June 1900 a great fire destroyed most of the cells and the roof of the main church. The present buildings largely date from the rebuilding, and only the surrounding wall of 1808–1812 survives in its original form. In 1934 a workshop named after Queen Mary was set up for church embroidery, carpets and woven cloth; since 1960 the building has housed a museum. Major restoration began in 1962, and the paintings of the main church were cleaned and restored in 1968–1969. Today the ensemble is a listed historic monument made up of five items, and the sisters still live among the village houses around the walls.

Curiosities about Văratec Monastery

With more than 400 nuns, Văratec is the largest community of nuns in Romania. A record of September 1811 already counted 273 sisters and sorted them by social origin, from boyars’ daughters to peasants’ and even a shepherd’s daughter.
Father Iosif, the monastery’s co-founder and confessor, is buried in the narthex of the main church. He was later canonised, and his memory is kept on 16 August.
The poet Veronica Micle, a close friend of Mihai Eminescu, is buried in the monastery cemetery. The wooded setting also attracted writers; Mihai Eminescu, Garabet Ibrăileanu, Gala Galaction and Calistrat Hogaș are all named as having lived or worked here.
A bronze statue of Safta Brâncoveanu by the sculptor Ion Jalea has stood near the eastern apse of the main church since 1935.
The iconostasis of the main church is carved in yew wood and gilded. It was made in 1816 by Constantin Zugravul at the expense of Elencu Paladi.
On the spot where the altar of the old wooden church once stood, a basin was installed in 1985 with a statue of an angel holding a cross.

Tours near Văratec Monastery

Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:

Red Lake and the Bicaz Gorges Day Tour

★ 4.7 (3 reviews) · 4 h

See details ›

Full Day 4x4 Tour in the Eastern Carpathians

★ 5 (3 reviews) · 6 h

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Via Ferrata Tour near Red Lake (Lacu Rosu)

★ 5 (2 reviews) · 2 h

See details ›

Half-Day 4x4 Tour in the Eastern Carpathians

★ 5 (2 reviews) · 3 h

See details ›

Visiting Văratec Monastery: what to see

Văratec is an active community of nuns, so visit quietly and with respect for the monastic life around you.
Inside the stone walls stand the main church of the Dormition, the abbess’s house and the administrative buildings; the former Queen Mary workshop on the southern side now houses the monastery museum.
Besides the main church (1808–1812) the ensemble includes the gate bell tower, the church of St John the Baptist (1844) and the church of the Transfiguration (1847).
The precinct is surrounded by a village of traditional houses where the nuns live, along narrow alleys, so a short walk around it is part of the visit.
Neamț Monastery is about 15 km away and Bistrița Monastery about 20 km. Check the current opening hours before you go.

Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.

Map: where Văratec Monastery is

Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors

Photos of Văratec Monastery

Questions

Where is Văratec Monastery?

It stands in the village of Văratec, in Agapia Commune, Neamț County, in north-eastern Romania, about 12 km from Târgu Neamț and 40 km from Piatra Neamț.

Who founded Văratec Monastery?

It was founded in 1785 by the nun Olimpiada together with her confessor, Father Iosif, on the advice of Paisius Velichkovsky, abbot of Neamț Monastery.

Is Văratec a monastery for men or women?

It is a women’s monastery. With more than 400 nuns it is the largest community of nuns in Romania.

What can you see at Văratec Monastery?

The main church of the Dormition, the churches of St John the Baptist and the Transfiguration, the gate bell tower, a museum in the former Queen Mary workshop and the traditional houses of the monastery village.

Who is buried at Văratec Monastery?

The co-founder Father Iosif lies in the main church, and Safta Brâncoveanu is buried at the monastery. The poet Veronica Micle rests in the monastery cemetery.

How old is the main church of Văratec?

The stone church of the Dormition was built between 1808 and 1812 and consecrated in 1812. It replaced the first wooden church of 1785.