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Bálványos Castle ruin on its hilltop near Turia
Castle & fortressTransylvania

Bálványos Castle: legends of a ruined hilltop fortress

Bálványos Castle (Cetatea Bálványos, in Hungarian Bálványosvár) is a ruined medieval castle on a steep hilltop in the north of Covasna County, Romania, near the village of Turia. It is a listed national monument, and a place of strong folklore, from a pagan chieftain to a kidnapped bride and a lost royal crown.

Its Hungarian name means “idolatrous”: tradition says the lords of Bálványos clung to the old pagan faith long after most of the country had turned Christian, until, as one legend has it, love changed their minds.

WhereHilltop near Turia, northern Covasna County, Transylvania
TypeRuined medieval castle, national monument
Best forCastle legends, hilltop ruins and lesser-known Transylvanian history
Getting thereOn a hill north-west of where the Turia and Bodoc mountains meet; Mikó Castle is about 30 km away and Prejmer fortified church about 46 km

The history of Bálványos Castle

Bálványos Castle stands on top of a steep hill, to the north-west of the point where the Turia and Bodoc mountains meet, on the territory of the village of Turia in northern Covasna County. Its name comes from the Hungarian word bálványos, “idolatrous”, so the fortress can loosely be called the Castle of the Idols. Tradition says the reason is that it was one of the last strongholds of the original pagan Hungarian faith. Its lords, the Apor family, are said to have refused Christianity long after most of the country had converted.

Folklore names the tribal chieftain Opour, or Apor, as the builder, in the days of King Stephen I, so that he could go on practising his pagan faith in peace. Written sources mention the castle in the Middle Ages, first under the name Baluanus, and in 1360 as Castrum Balwanus. The castle had an oval-shaped wall, and at its northern end stood a square tower with cisterns below it. It was protected by both an outer and an inner wall.

The best-known legend explains how the Apors finally became Christians, in the early 12th century according to tradition. Apor Szilamér, the lord’s son, wanted to marry Imola, the only child of the rival Mike family, who were already Christian, which made a marriage impossible. In the Hungarian version of the tale he first saw her at the fair of Torja. Szilamér decided to carry the girl off, and the angry Mikes prepared to lay siege to the castle. But Imola loved him back and persuaded him to convert, so that peace and a wedding became possible without bloodshed. The writer Mór Jókai later used this legend as the basis of his novel Bálványosvár.

Local folklore places a famous episode here in 1307. After the Árpád dynasty died out, the kingdom of Hungary fell into chaos, and Otto of Bavaria, crowned King of Hungary, travelled to Transylvania to see Kán (Apor) László. In one version he came to ask for the lord’s daughter’s hand, in another he was fleeing his enemies. Kán László received the king but imprisoned him and took the Holy Crown of Hungary. In some accounts Otto was held until he gave up the throne and promised never to return. The crown was later handed to Charles Robert, the first Angevin king, after pressure from the Pope, and the episode cleared the way for the Angevins to rule Hungary.

The Apor family lived in the castle until the 17th century. Apor László, its lord, fell in the battle of Brașov in 1603, fighting Moses Székely. After that his widow, Borbála Lázár, left the castle and moved to a more comfortable manor built in Torja. Soon afterwards the castle began to decay. Today it survives as a ruin and is protected as a national monument.

Curiosities about Bálványos Castle

  • Bálványos means “idolatrous” in Hungarian, so the name can be translated as the Castle of the Idols.
  • According to tradition, the Apor family refused to give up the old pagan faith long after most of Hungary had become Christian, which gave the castle its name.
  • A local legend about a kidnapped bride, Imola, who persuaded her captor to become Christian and thus ended a feud, inspired Mór Jókai’s novel Bálványosvár.
  • Folklore says Otto of Bavaria, crowned King of Hungary, lost the Holy Crown here in 1307 when Kán László locked him up.
  • The castle had an oval wall, a square tower at its northern end with cisterns underneath, and two lines of defence, an outer wall and an inner wall.
  • After the lord Apor László fell at the battle of Brașov in 1603, the family moved to a more comfortable manor in Torja, and the castle slowly fell into ruin.

Tours near Bálványos Castle

Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:

Visiting Bálványos Castle: what to see

  • The castle is a ruin on top of a steep hill, so expect a climb. The sources do not describe a marked path or visitor facilities, so ask locally in Turia before you set out.
  • The remains reflect the old plan: an oval enclosure with a tower on the northern side, and traces of the outer and inner walls.
  • Look out for the setting itself: the hill rises where the Turia and Bodoc mountains meet.
  • Mikó Castle is about 30 km away and Prejmer fortified church about 46 km, so the ruin can be combined with other sites of the region.
  • Access arrangements can change, so check the current opening hours and conditions before you go.

Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.

Map: where Bálványos Castle is

Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors

Photos of Bálványos Castle

Bálványos Castle, view 1
Photo: Lakeof, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bálványos Castle, view 2
Photo: Krunch13, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bálványos Castle, view 3
Photo: Andrei kokelburg, CC BY-SA 3.0 ro, via Wikimedia Commons
Bálványos Castle, view 4
Photo: Andrei kokelburg, CC BY-SA 3.0 ro, via Wikimedia Commons
Bálványos Castle, view 5
Photo: Andrei kokelburg, CC BY-SA 3.0 ro, via Wikimedia Commons

Questions

Where is Bálványos Castle?

It stands on a steep hill in the north of Covasna County, Romania, near the village of Turia, north-west of the point where the Turia and Bodoc mountains meet.

Why is it called the Castle of the Idols?

Bálványos means “idolatrous” in Hungarian. Tradition says the castle was one of the last strongholds of the old pagan Hungarian faith, held by the Apor family long after most of the country had converted.

Who lived in Bálványos Castle?

The Apor family lived there until the 17th century. Apor László fell at the battle of Brașov in 1603, and his widow then moved to a more comfortable manor at Torja.

What is the legend of Bálványos Castle?

Apor Szilamér is said to have kidnapped Imola of the Mike family. She won him over and persuaded him to convert, which ended the feud and led to a wedding. The story inspired a novel by Mór Jókai.

Is Bálványos Castle a protected monument?

Yes. It is a ruin with national monument status in Romania, listed under the code CV-II-m-A-13297.

What can you see near Bálványos Castle?

Mikó Castle is about 30 km away, Prejmer fortified church about 46 km, Rupea Citadel about 59 km and the Black Tower in Brașov about 60 km.

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